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TIME: Almanac 1995
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<text id=89TT1878>
<title>
July 17, 1989: Back From The Bikini Brink
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1989
July 17, 1989 Death By Gun
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
FASHION, Page 82
Back from the Bikini Brink
</hdr><body>
<p>As time goes by, baby boomers opt for a discreet cover-up
</p>
<p> Talk about your nerve-jangling summer adventures. No, not
Batman or Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. For many women,
it's those countless forays into the dressing room in search of
a bathing suit that won't expose every bulge or sag. This
summer, however, has provided some relief from the unforgiving
itsy-bitsy bikini. Enter the fashionable swimsuit.
</p>
<p> New swimwear is revealing less, not more, of the skin and
using an array of design and construction tricks to camouflage
body flaws. Higher necklines and underwire bras help disguise
a large bust; ruffles and other upper-body froufrous distract
from a small one. Lower-cut legs and flirty little skirts divert
attention from big hips and thighs, while high waistlines, belts
and stomach-control panels are doing their bit to hide the
belly.
</p>
<p> Most major suitmakers are in the covered-up swim. Designers
Adrienne Vittadini and Randolph Duke are among those who have
swirled out skirted suits, while Norma Kamali recalls the 1940s
with long-line swimwear featuring elegant drapery. Former
Hollywood star Esther Williams has lent her name to a line of
classic one-piece suits reminiscent of her costumes in films
like Neptune's Daughter. Using a bit of verbal camouflage, Body
Glove Apparel, a California outfit, says its line is "cut for
the Midwestern frame," and Sandcastle is doing well with a
collection intended to "minimize common figure problems like
heavy thighs, tummy bulge and wide hips." A Gottex suit that
covers up lower-abdomen paunch with a strategically placed
cummerbund has drawn more than 15,000 orders through the Spiegel
catalog alone.
</p>
<p> The draped shape can be traced to those ubiquitous trend
setters, the baby boomers. The generation that grew up in the
let-it-all-hang-out '60s has found that by age 35 or 40, it may
be time to start holding some of it in. Sales of women's
swimwear have fallen in recent years, and the aging of the
population is probably one reason. "Women were complaining that
they couldn't find appropriate bathing suits," says Ruth
Rubinstein of New York City's Fashion Institute of Technology.
"Most were made for the very young who had perfect bodies."
Asserts John Rogoff, senior vice president of Excelsior, which
markets the Esther Williams line: "There's a tremendous trend
toward modesty and conservatism."
</p>
<p> The advent of more ample suits may also reflect a greater
concern about skin cancer and other damaging effects of the
sun. "The fashion suit is for a sophisticated dresser who is
not interested in tanning," says Kamali, "but is being more
specific about what looks good on her." Any skin-protection
benefits, of course, are minimal: a few extra inches of fabric
are no substitute for a No. 20 sunblock -- or a place in the
shade.
</p>
<p> Bikinis of dental-floss dimensions are hardly an endangered
species, as any visitor to the beaches of Long Island or
Southern California can attest. And designers point out that no
miracle of construction can transform a middle-aged woman into
a sleek postadolescent. "No matter what kind of suit you put
on," says Anne Klein designer Louis Dell'Olio, "if you're fat,
you're fat."
</p>
</body></article>
</text>